| The Equipment |
| Filtration |
| Good |
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Better |
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Best |
• Hagen AquaClear Box Filters - This is a good filter that has room for Purigen and media of your choice. Always select a filter at least one size up from the size recommended by Hagen.
Optionally, two smaller filters can be used for increased efficiency and as a fail-safe should one filter go down. |
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• Eheim Canister Filters
These are great, dependable canister filters. Pack them for biological and chemical media use. Ecco models come pre-packed and have room for Purigen later. Eheims are quiet and with regular care will perform for many years. |
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• Trickle Filters
Large tanks and ‘ultimate’ tanks can be set up with Aquarium Life Support Systems trickle filters. These efficient units must be used with a siphon box or drilled tank and are, hands down, the best filters for any system. |
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| Lighting |
| Good |
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Better |
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Best |
• Zoomed Fluorescent Lights
Two rows of lights minimum. These are T8 and produce more lumens than standard T12 lamps. These lamps are limited to moderate and low light plants. See the Plant Guide for details. |
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• Custom SeaLife Brite Lites These SHO power compact lights produce approximately 3 times the lumens per watt compared to standard fluorescent lighting. 80% of plant varieties can be kept with these fixtures on all but the deepest aquariums. |
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• CoraLife Pendant Lights These metal halide fixtures produce the intense light needed to produce Dutch-type aquariums. This lighting supports all plant species. A well-planned aquascape is needed with taller growing plants to provide the shade the Crypts and other middleground and moderate light plants require.
• Aqualight with twin tube Power Compact fixtures with fans are an alternative to CoraLife hanging fixtures. Note! use 5500,6700 and 8800 kelvin bulbs not included |
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Carbon Dioxide (CO2)
CO2 is the difference between a planted show tank and just a tank with plants |
| Good |
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Better |
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Best |
• CO2 Fizz Factory with CO2 Fizz Tabs by Jungle An economical alternative to many of the CO2 injection units. Easy to follow instructions and a portion of every sale goes to preserve the Rainforest.
• CO2 Liquid Fertilizer System by OSI. This unique liquid supplies CO2 to your plants. Plant growth results should be seen in two weeks. Carefully follow instructions and place one of the three vials supplied with the suction cup supplied to the aquarium glass. Remember to always use these products in the morning with the lights on. |
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• Carbo Plus CO2 System For Plants The most technologically advanced way to add carbon dioxide to the aquarium. For aquariums up to 130 gallons. Safer than other CO2 methods and definitely less hassle. Just replace Carbon bar when the Carbo-Plus tells you. Add the unit to the lamp timer and have it kick off after the lights are turned off (8-10 hours).
• Stationary pH Monitor and Controller by Milwaukee turns the unit on and off at a set pH. The unit also closes a solenoid valve that can be used to control the flow from a locally purchased CO2 cylinder. |
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• CO2 Regulator, Solenoid Valve and Bubble Counter. Use with a CO2 Reactor. The reactor in the Fizz Factory or ALSS Oxygen Reactor will work for larger sump installations. Use with a pH controller such as Stationary pH monitor and controller for a completely automatic system.
If a pH controller is not used hook the solenoid valve to a lamp timer and have it go off during the night cycle of the aquarium
Use approximately 1 bubble of CO2 every 5 seconds.
Remember this varies from tank to tank. Monitor pH when CO2 is used. Excess CO2 can harm fish.
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| Gravel |
Plant the aquarium with a gravel base of 3-6”. Large gravel is not suitable for planted aquariums. Start with at least 1lb per gallon of tank volume. Add more if needed.
Use substrate additives with a third of the gravel and place as the bottom layer in the aquarium. The rest of the gravel is placed on top of the mixed gravel to a total height of 3-6”. Use small substrate for the base - 2-4 mm diameter particles is best.
Flourite by SeaChem or Eco-Complete Planted Aquarium Substrate may be used either as the base coat for the above application or for the gravel layer.
A thin layer of Azoo Substrate Fertilizer is another alternative gravel base layer.
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| The Method |
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| Plant the Aquarium |
1. Partially fill the tank. Dechlorinate and plant the aquarium right away with plenty of fast growing oxygenating plants like Hygrophila, Sagittaria, and Vallisneria. Bunch plants perform better when planted with Plant Plugs by Aquarium Products. Remember to trim bunch plants approximately 1" from the bottom and remove all dead material. Avoid leaves in the plug or below the surface of the gravel. See the Freshwater Plant Guide, Solution 11, for more details on oxygenating plants to select.
2. To enhance the Nitrogen Cycle, use a good quality bacteria starter like Nitromax Freshwater by Tropical Science or Aquarium Cleaner.
3. Add very few fish but add Otocinclus Catfish, Amano Shrimp, Mollies and or Flying Fox.
4. Remember, it is normal to lose some of the initial fish and plants. The goal is to establish some healthy, fast growing algae-fighting plants while cycling your aquarium. See the Nitrogen Cycle article for more information on this important process.
5. Add a small amount of Phosguard by SeaChem to the filter. Use a high grade activated carbon like Matrix Carbon by SeaChem. Planted tanks require more carbon than ordinary fish tanks. SeaGel by SeaChem is a good, convenient mixture of both Phosguard and carbon. These all should be placed in filter bags.
6. Begin monitoring pH. Initial pH readings will be high. Lower pH with CO2 doses. See notes below.
7. Maintain water temperature at 72-73°F initially and later at 75-76°F once the tank is established. Allow 6 weeks for the tank to stabilize.
8. Do not use fertilizers until plants have become established and show signs of root growth.
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| Important Information about CO2 and pH |
If aquarium plants are doing well small bubbles begin to form along the margins of the leaves within 1-2 hours after the lights and CO2 are started. If no bubbles are observed and CO2 levels have been increased the problem is usually lighting or filtration.
Ideal pH in a planted tank is 6.8. Natural fluctuations of pH occur during the day and values as high as 7.5 do not harm plants. pH levels are lowest lin the morning before the lights are turned on, rise throughout the day and are highest level in the evening before the lights go out. The greater the difference between the lowest and highest pH levels the higher the conversion of CO2 and the better the plants are doing. The high range tends to drop as the tank becomes established.
Ideally, adjustments to pH should be made by increasing the amount of CO2 introduced into the system. Chemicals to lower pH should be avoided in the plant tank, however, values above 7.5 may require attention. Should pH adjustment become necessary, use only Liquid Acid Buffer by SeaChem. Assuming water changes and water conditions are kept up, Alkaline Buffer by SeaChem can be used to raise pH. Never make drastic changes in pH! Any change in pH should be made gradually over a period of several hours to days.
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| Other Water Quality Parameters |
| kH |
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Ideal range: 3-4 degrees. Adjust with pH Stable by Kent Marine |
| gH |
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Ideal level: 2°. Soften with deionized or R/O water and peat. |
| Iron |
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Ideal level: .1ppm After addition of iron supplement, wait for it to drop to .05ppm before adding more. Do not exceed .2ppm. |
| Nitrate |
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Ideal level: 0 Practical level: 10ppm or less. Reduce with small, frequent water changes. |
| Phosphate |
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Ideal level: as low as possible. Adjust with Phosguard by SeaChem, and/or R/O water adjusted with R/O Right by Kent Marine |
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| Algae Problems |
Algae in aquariums is unavoidable. An overabundance of algae is unsightly and sometimes unhealthy in the planted tank. Algae control is achieved by proper filtration, water movement, live load balance and water chemistry. The main cause for algae growth is almost always phosphorus. Phosphorus is often found in tap water and like nitrate, is also a by-product of the fish load. Natural balance in the plant tank is achieved by the ratio of algae eating animals and fast growing vascular plants that compete with algae for nutrients. Here are some tips:
• use Phosguard if you are using tap water
• use R/O water
• keep Otocinclus catfish
• keep Siamese Flying Fox
• keep Algae Eating Shrimp (tiny ones may be eaten by aggressive fish)
• keep them from Day 1
Once the tank is set up, plant the tank right away to get oxygenating and rooted plants established as quickly as possible. Products like Tropical Clear by Tropical Science and Aquarium Cleaner by Water Quality Science help bind organic material into compounds unusable by algae as nutrients. Once nitrate and phosphate are in check reduce fertilizer and/or iron supplements until algae is in check.
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| Snails and Other Pests |
| Clown Loaches and Dwarf Cichlids can do some serious damage to a nuisance snail or leech population. |
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| Supplement Schedule |
| 3-6 weeks |
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• Good - use Freshwater Plant Supplement by Kent Marine, or
• Better - use Flourish by Seachem, or
• Best - use Flourish - can be diluted with r/o water and used in the Eheim Liquidoser |
| after 1 month |
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• use Purigen by Seachem to polish water and reduce organics. Use as necessary. |
| after 2 months |
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• begin using less carbon. Reduce to small quantities and replace it every other month. If iron levels are hard to maintain, discontinue carbon unless water is yellow or has an odor. Purigen also helps and does not affect valuable trace elements. These elements are replaced with products like Flourish by SeaChem. |
| after 3 months |
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• use Flourish, Flourish Excell or Pro Plant if growth of plants is an issue. Use at half doses. If iron levels are hard to maintain use Flourish Iron to raise levels |
| after 6 months |
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• start using 1/4 doses of Flourish Potassium by Seachem. If better growth is noticed continue. Potassium can be a problem if everything else is in check and plants are not thriving. Use Flourish Tabs or Azoo Fertilizer Balls every 3-4 months. |
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